Crate Training

Pet crates are an excellent way to train your dog and provide it with its own sanctuary. There are numerous benefits to crate training your dog, including a feeling of security for your dog and safety for young children. Crate training can prevent costly damage, helps you train your dog in proper chewing and elimination, easy traveling, and improves the pet/owner relationship. Some things to remember when you undertake crate training: a crate should have enough room for the dog to stand and turn around but not much more than that, place the crate in a room full of activity, and never use the crate for punishment. If you use "time-out," place the dog in a separate room instead of the crate.
If you have a puppy introduce it to the crate as early as possible. Place a few treats, toys, or food in the crate to motivate the puppy to enter on its own. Once the puppy is comfortable entering the crate on its own then you are ready to try confinement (this may take several days). The first confinement should be after a period of play, exercise, and elimination. Place the puppy in its crate with a toy and a treat, and close the door. Leave the room but remain close enough to hear the puppy. Expect some distress at first. Never let the puppy out when it cries or whines. Ignore it until the crying stops, and then release it. If crying does not subside on its own, a light scolding may be useful. Avoid excessive correction— it can cause fear and anxiety. Remain out-of-sight so that the puppy does not associate the punishment with your presence. A squirt from a water gun or a sharp noise (try a shaker can containing a few coins) can be used to interrupt barking.
Training an adult dog is similar to training a puppy, except the initial introduction to the crate. Introduce the dog to the crate by setting it up in the dog's feeding area with the door open for a few days. Place food, treats, and toys in the crate so that the dog enters on its own. Once the dog is entering the crate freely, close the door. Gradually increase the amount of time the dog must remain quietly in the crate before you release it. When punishing the dog, take the same advice given for puppy training.

Corneal Ulcer

Corneal ulcers are a relatively common eye problem seen in veterinary medicine. The cornea is the clear shiny surface of the eye. It has three layers. The most superficial layer is the epithelium. Below the epithelium is the stroma, and the deepest layer is Descemet's membrane. Behind the cornea are the fluid, the lens, the nerves, and the muscle of the eye. If the cornea is penetrated, the liquid leaks out and vision is permanently lost. A corneal ulcer happens when one or more of the cornea’s three layers erode away. As the erosion gets deeper, the risk of penetration of the cornea and permanent blindness increases.
The most common cause of a corneal ulcer is trauma, either blunt like rubbing the eye with the paw or on the carpet or a laceration such as a cat scratch. Less common causes include viral infections, rolled eyelids, or problems with tear production. When a corneal ulcer occurs it causes a lot of pain. Animals may squint, tear, have reddened whites of the eye, or rub at the eye. Other signs include a white discoloration, a dark discoloration, or growth of blood vessels into the cornea.
Diagnosis is made by placing dye onto the eye and shining a special light over the eye. Only the middle layer of the cornea picks up dye. If the outer layer is damaged, the dye will stain the exposed middle layer of the cornea. Treatment varies with severity of damage. An Elizabethan collar is used to prevent further trauma from rubbing. Topical antibiotics and medicine for pain may be prescribed. If the ulcer is very deep, surgery may be recommended. Frequent re-checks are required to make sure that the cornea does not rupture and to make sure the eye heals completely. If your pet is “winking” at you, it is vital to have your pet checked for corneal ulcer. Not only will early treatment reduce the likelihood of complication but you will also decrease the amount of time your pet is in pain.

How do I know what breeds are in my mutt?

Modern advances in DNA testing have provided a way to find out the composition, or breed ancestry, of your mixed breed dog. When was the last time your took a look at your furry companion and thought to yourself, “Is Max a shepherd or a collie?” If this is something you confront often, then Mars Veterinary is here to answer your questions.
Mars Veterinary is a branch of Mars Incorporated, which specializes in pet care and nutrition. After years of study and research at the Waltham Center in the United Kingdom, the Wisdom Panel™ MX Mixed Breed Analysis was born.
This laboratory test requires a small blood sample to be drawn at your local veterinary clinic and sent off to the Wisdom lab in Lincoln, Nebraska. Once the sample reaches the lab, Wisdom’s highly trained staff begins to analyze the DNA structure of your dog. The process is lengthy because over 300 sites on the DNA code are examined. Once the lab has analyzed your pet, they then compare it’s results to that of their database, which is composed of over 130 breeds. Once the test is complete, you and your veterinarian will receive a customized report containing the information about your dog as well as characteristics of the breeds in its ancestry. The process takes about two weeks, and the cost is dependent on your veterinary clinic. The Wisdom Panel is, so far, only for dogs. The test also does not test the purity of premium-bred dogs, although, this is something that Mars Veterinary is working toward.
One might ask, “Why do I need to know my dog’s composition?” This is a very good question. Breed analysis allows the owner to know disorders and problems that your pet could be at risk to having. For instance, Boxers are prone to develop cancers, heart conditions such as Arrhythmogenic Right Ventricular Cardiomyopathy, hypothyroidism, hip dysplasia, and degenerative myelopathy. If your pet is a cross-bred dog with a significant amount of boxer genetics, then it is pre-deposed to these problems as well. Knowing your dog’s breed can not only ease your curiosity, but help you and your veterinaian to stratagize a wellness plan to keep your little (or big) friend happy for a long time to come.
If you are seeking any additional information or wish to run a Wisdom panel on your special friend, then please contact Hillsboro Veterinary Clinic at (503) 648-4117.

Cognitive Dysfunction in Senior Dogs

While older dogs may move a bit more slowly and get a little gray around the muzzle, they shouldn't experience a complete change in personality. A dog that suddenly seems confused, distant, or lost may be showing signs of cognitive dysfunction. Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (or CDS) is a degeneration of the brain and the nervous system in dogs. It results in a deterioration of cognitive abilities, causing behavioral changes that can disrupt the lives of pets and the families that care for them. Studies have shown that roughly 60% of dogs 11-16 years old will show some symptoms of CDS. So how can you tell if a dog is showing signs of CDS or if she's just getting older? Watch for her to start showing some of the following behaviors: withdrawing from interaction with the family, staring at walls or into space, sleeping more during the day or less at night, house soiling, pacing or wandering aimlessly, frequent trembling or shaking, ignoring known commands, or having trouble finding the door or standing at the hinge side of the door.
If you see these behaviors in your dog, tell your veterinarian--she may be able to help. If she suspects CDS, your veterinarian can take a thorough behavior and medical history of your dog. She can also perform a physical and neurological exam and blood and urine tests to rule out other conditions that could cause these symptoms, such as hypothyroidism, kidney problems, arthritis, and hearing and vision loss. Once she's ruled out any underlying diseases, you can discuss treatment. Unfortunately, there is no cure for CDS, but there is increasing hope. A specialized diet high in antioxidants has improved this syndrome in some dogs. There is also a supplement available that improves the brain’s ability to transmit messages. Your veterinarian can help you decide which approach is right for your dog.

Collapsed Trachea

The trachea, or windpipe, is a tube that brings air from the throat to the lungs. It is made of circular cartilage rings with a strip of muscle running along the top. Tracheal collapse occurs when the cartilage rings lose their stiffness and the circular shape collapses. Toy breeds are most commonly affected. Dogs with a collapsed trachea develop a chronic unproductive cough which is generally worse in the day and when excited, during exercise, or walking on a leash. It may not cause a significant cough until a second problem, such as obesity, airborne pollutants (smoke, pollens), respiratory infection (kennel cough, etc.), intubation during anesthesia, or heart disease complicate things. Severe cases can completely block airflow, which is an emergency and can result in suffocation.
Radiographs of the chest need to be taken to diagnose a collapsed trachea. Treatment can include medical or surgical therapy. Medical therapy starts with removing or controlling any secondary problems – antibiotics for infections, weight loss program, control environmental pollutants, etc. Dogs with a collapsed trachea should only be walked with a harness. Excitement can make symptoms worse so many dogs do well on cough suppressants and airway dilators for long term treatment. Once the cough starts it causes tracheal swelling which makes the cough worse. Because of this, steroids can significantly improve the coughing. Steroids should not be used for long term treatment. Dogs that do not respond to medical treatment or have a severe collapse may be candidates for surgical treatment. The location of the collapse determines if surgery is an option. Surgery involves placement of a rigid prosthesis around the collapsed trachea to force it to stay open.
If you are concerned your dog may suffer from a collapsed trachea, please contact us a (503) 648-4117 to schedule an appointment.

Could My Cat Have Hay Fever?

Cats exhibit symptoms similar to humans when suffering from allergies. They may sneeze, wheeze, or cough like they are trying to throw up a hairball but rarely does. Owners may notice bald patches where the cat has licked excessively. Allergens that affect cats are the same one’s that often contribute to human allergies, including house dust, pollens, and molds. To help ensure an accurate diagnosis of which allergen is causing your cat’s symptoms, keep track of the time of year when symptoms occur, the part of the body most affected, and whether the cat has been indoors or outside. Once an allergen has been identified, avoidance is the best prevention. If dust is to blame, regular vacuuming and dusting is advised. Mold sensitive cats should avoid the basement and other damp areas. Indoor cats can be affected by outdoor allergens from people bringing pollens in on their clothes and bodies.

Treatment depends largely on the length of the cat's allergy season. It involves two approaches. Steroids will dramatically block the allergic reaction in most cases. Some cats are helped considerably by a hypoallergenic shampoo. It has been demonstrated that some allergens may be absorbed through the skin. Frequent bathing is thought to reduce the amount of antigen exposure through this route. In addition to removing surface antigen, bathing alone will provide some temporary relief from itching and may allow the use of a lower dose of steroids. The second major form of allergy treatment is desensitization with specific antigen injections (or "allergy shots"). Once the specific sources of allergy are identified, very small amounts of the antigen are injected weekly. This is all in an attempt to reprogram the body's immune system. To find out if allergies are causing your cat’s symptoms and to learn more about treatment call and make an appointment today at 503-648-4117.

Chocolate Toxicity

Since the holidays are just around the corner, just a reminder that chocolates are dangerous for our dogs. Cats generally won’t eat chocolate, but many dogs will devour any chocolate in sight, regardless of type or quantity. Chocolate contains stimulants such as caffeine and theobromine that can be toxic to dogs. It also contains large amounts of sugar and fat that can cause GI upset (vomiting or diarrhea) and pancreatitis. There are many different types of chocolate, and each has different levels of stimulants. Baking chocolate has the highest levels. As little as ½ oz can be toxic for a small dog, and 4 to 8 ounces is toxic for a large dog. Dark or semi-sweet chocolate has the next highest concentration of stimulants, and milk chocolate has the lowest amount.
A dog that has eaten a toxic amount of chocolate can demonstrate multiple problems including vomiting or diarrhea, stumbling, hyperactivity, muscle tremors, seizures and coma. Signs generally begin within 1-4 hours of ingestion. If you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate or you witnessed ingestion, call your veterinarian immediately! The best treatment is to get it out of their system by inducing vomiting. Absorption can be slowed with activated charcoal and the stimulants flushed out of their system with intravenous fluids. Most animals recover well with aggressive therapy.
The key to prevention is keeping chocolate well out of reach of your dog. First, never feed your dog chocolate!!! All chocolate should be locked in cupboards or in sealed containers – do not leave any chocolate out on counters.